The Box: The box consists of plywood walls & 2x2 legs. 1x2's or 1x1's frame the bottom of the box, upon which rests the plywood bottom for the box. I attached some corner moulding to hide the edges of the plywood at the front corners. Another method of construction one might consider is with legs on the outside, similar to this example. Master Terafan of House Greydragon has an article for another plywood paneled chest with legs on outside that would also be feasible.

The Seat: Originally I made a flat frame of 1x4's for the seat with mitered corners, which sat on top of a frame of 1x3's. The seat was leather, stretched across the frame & secured with upholstery tacks. The flat frame had to be reinforced with steel mending plates due to the fact I knew nothing about woodworking at the time, and this was a poor design because I am not skinny. It wasn't long before an impression of the mending plates showed through the leather, as well as the interior edges of the frame. In this (new & improved) design, the same front-faced 1x3 frame is utilized and topped with a square of plywood. On the sides, mortise a little space so that the chain link can tuck into the box during transport. To finish it, use a thin layer of cotton batting & a bit of upholstery grade leather fastened down with upholstery tacks. No need to tuck in edges of leather as long as you've got a clean-cut edge, or you like making extra work for yourself.

The Back: The back is framed of 1x3's. On the sides are small cabinet knobs suitable for jewelry boxes about 1/2" diameter. Hook the end links of the chain on these knobs. To draft out the pattern for the back, click here. The Chain: The chain is attached to the box of the chair by a screw eye; I used a zinc screw backplate to make it a little prettier. These are relatively inexpensive at your local hardware store, or you can get fancy & get something more period looking from a reproduction hardware company. The chain itself is decorative but relatively durable, found in most hardware stores.

The Hinges: Step I: inset hinges 1 1/4 times the width of the hinge from the edge. Hinge the seat to the box. Step II: mortise 2x3 to fit over the hinges, and attach to the box, with the top of the 2x3 level with the top of the box. I cut down a 2x4; you could also simply laminate (glue & layer) 2 1x3's. Step III: hinge back onto 2x3, with hinges close to outside edge. There should be a 3/4" gap between the seat and the back to allow room for the seat to lift. Click on thumbnails for larger images.

To open, simply lift the seat. The seat & back will tip back simultaneously. For transport, unhook the chains from the knobs on the back, fold the back down, and tuck in the chains.

If you should have any questions, suggestions, or photos of your own rendition, by all means please contact me & share! --Ceara ni Neill