Norse Merchant's Cap: Ceara's Rendition

Playing around with the previous pattern, I have found that some things that seem to work a little differently, for ease of construction and better fit.

Using wool, flannel, or other similar fabric I have found that an underlining didn't allow the hat to drape well. So I omit that and just use a simple cotton broadcloth or muslin for a lining. For a little more body a thin layer of flannel could be used as an underlining, but I dont' think it's really necessary unless you live in an exceptionally cold climate.

Drafting the pattern...

Fold your fabric in half to cut out the pattern. Measure 18 inches from the point that will be the tip of the cap. Pivot the end of your ruler from the tip marking the measurements in a circle to ensure the correct length all the way around. Draw a line to connect the marks. You should have something like this:

Now measure loosely the circumference of your head, and divide that number by 2 and add 1". Hold your measuring tape against the circular line you've just drawn, and mark that amount from the fold line. Draw a line from the pivot point to the point you just marked.

These are your cutting lines. It's not a bad idea your first time to be generous with the circumference measurement. You can always take it in, but you can't always put it back. It's also a good idea to cut out the lining fabric first, that way if something goes wrong you haven't messed up expensive wool.

Go ahead and cut out your fabric along the lines, and stitch the length of the fabric to make a cone, leaving 1/2" seam allowance. If your fabric for some reason is slippery, you can baste it first. Basting is when you hand-stitch something to stay in place until you sew it with the machine. Good for slippery fabrics or multiple layers.

Now fit the cone on your head. If it fits loosely around your head, it's perfect. You should be able to fit a couple of fingers underneath it. If it's too loose, pin or otherwise mark where it should be and re-stitch. Do this with both the outer layer and the lining as well as an underlining if you're using one.

If you are not using an underlining, place the lining on top of the shell (outer layer) lining up the seams. Stitch them together along the seamline, and then turn the shell right-side out. The lining should now be stitched inside so you don't have to worry about it slipping. If you need to you can use a pencil (eraser end) to push out the tip from the inside.

If you are using an underlining, then lay the lining cone on the underlining cone and stitch as described above, then turn the underlining right side out, pushing out the tip. Tack the tip with a couple of stitches to the inside of the tip of the shell, then fold the shell over the linings right side out. Now stitch 1/4" from the edge along the head opening to hold all layers in place.

Now the hard part's over, we get to play with fur! Cut a rectangle 7 inches wide and as long as the circumference of your head, plus seam allowance. If you're using fake fur, it's a good idea to use a little bit of interfacing, cut the same as the fur. Lay it over the wrong side of the fur, fold them in half lengthwise and stitch the ends wrong side together with 1/2" allowance. Now stitch the fur to the outside of the cap as shown:

Fold the fur in half, and tuck under 1/2" seam allowance, and hand stitch on the inside of the cap.

Finish off the tip with beads, a tassel, or whatever tickles your fancy as per mentioned in the previous article.

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